Buildlog: RealAcc X210 (QAV-X clone)

Hello, my name is Stef aka Dutchwalnut_fpv and I love to build quadcopters! I really enjoy soldering and selecting parts for a new quadcopter. Because we can never learn enough.

Did I found my sweet spot yet? No, there are a lot of frames out there. I just stumbled upon this QAV-X clone and preordered it.

So there it is, after my Lisam LS210 and ZMR250 comes my RealAcc X210 build.

Parts

Here comes the parts that I will be using:

  • RealAcc X210
  • RROSD PRO MINI PDB
  • KISS FC
  • Flycolor Raptor BLS 30 (BLHeli_S 30A)
  • RunCam Swift (120 wide lens)
  • Emax 2205/2300kv Red Bottoms
  • Eachine 200mw
  • FrSky X4R-SB LBT (eu)
  • Turnigy 2K camera
  • Tattu 4S 1300ma 75C

A special thanks to DroneHiTech for sponsoring the Flycolor ESCs.

I never used BLHeli before, because my first quadcopter was a kit with motors and my second build was full KISS. But this time I wanted a different ESCs, the BLHeli_S. I wanted to use my KISS flight controller because it is very simple to use.

But first before all the soldering, I need to fit it all. It’s a very small frame but thanks to some QAVX pictures from Charpu, I could see how I will fit it all.

RROSD

First I mounted the RROSD on the frame, next up was the KISS FC.

KISS FC

Then came the Emax 2205/2300kv Red Bottoms on the frame. I used this motors before on my LS210 build and they are great!

EMAX 2205 Red Bottoms

After the motors, I assembled the Runcam Swift to see how much room I have.

Runcam Swift

This is a real treat to assemble. I really like the frame and it is so light.

QAV-X Runcam Swift

Before soldering it all together, I made a test if the RROSD is working properly. Because if not, it’s a DOA and if there is any solder, you lose your warranty. So check before you solder!

RROSD Test

That’s why I love to solder, not only the smell but also it must be perfect! Tip: Solder the wire and the pads first. Then solder it together. It comes out much cleaner and it is easier to solder them together.

You can see that I have attached the battery and it is working properly. The header you see is from the X4R-SB receiver.

Power cables

After soldering the power connection the CAM was up. I did not use the header because if you crash, it will come of. I learned it by crash after crash.

Runcam Swift cable

Yes, I used a header to connect the flight controller to the RROSD because now I can easily swap the PDB if needed.

KISS FC RROSD

So as you can see I already soldered the VTX connection to the board, not with a header. It’s coming along fine.

KSS FC connected

Before going any further I tried powering up the flight controller and it passed! Tip: Check your solder with a Volt-Meter. Because you don’t want the flight controller to fail because of a bad connection!

Now I had to test if my FPV and OSD was working. After that I was preparing to place the X4R-SB correctly and soldering the pads for the Flycolor Raptor BLHeli_S ESCs.

I needed to check again if it fits, checking is part of the hobby! There is just not enough room for my receiver, so I really need to correct it. I ordered some new spacers because I really need +1mm more for the bottom.

There they are! These Flycolor BLHeli_S are really beasts! They are mini but that’s why I like them. They are very lightweight and fit easily on all arms on most of the frames out there. I’m using the 30A because I wanted to build a 4S Quadcopter with triblades.

Flycolor Raptor 30A BLHeli_S

Next up! Wires… wires everywhere! Soldering all the Flycolor Raptor BLHeli_S to the RROSD. Again, check twice before you cut.

Flycolor wires

Yeah, it’s coming a long fine now. It’s so clean! I really enjoy building it!

QAV-X building

But there were problems, because the KISS FC doesn’t support BLHeli passthrough. So I had to use my old ZMR250 with SPRacing to flash it to Betaflight. Then I could use passthrough for the ESCs. I needed it for setting the motor rotation direction.

Next was taking it outside to see the sunset. I swapped the original Runcam 90 lens with a 120 angle lens. And I used DYS 5045 Triblades. They a really nice and don’t break so easily.

I’m using a Tattu 4S 75C 1300ma LiPo. They are great! I wanted to use SMC’s, but they are not available in Europe.

Time for weighing the Quadcopter:

  • 320g without camera and LiPo battery
  • 495g with them

And here is the final shot from my QAV-X clone build!

QUV-X build

So that wraps up my buildlog. I really enjoyed building it as much as flying it.


I want to say thanks to Stef for his amazing work! If you like his article, please share it, like it and follow him for more cool stories and pics on Instagram.

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